January 25, 2012 by pam.

Panama hats are made in Ecuador, specifically Cuenca and the surrounding areas. In the 19th and early 20th century, South American goods were shipped around the world via Panama, and they got the name “Panama Hats”. Many famous people have worn Panama hats including President Theodore Roosevelt, Napoleon, Edward VII, Jason Mraz, Sean Connery, and Anthony Hopkins. And, they are worn throughout Ecuador. This country and culture loves hats (or as they call them “sombreros”). All kinds are worn by men, women and children. Not only for the style, but also for function. The sun is strong here and wearing a hat is almost mandatory if you’re outside a lot.

The hats are still handmade. People make them in their homes and then send them to a “factory” for finishing. There’s a variety of styles and quality. The more expensive hats have a finer weave and can take many months to make and cost hundreds or even more than a $1,000.

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January 25, 2012 by pam.

We’re staying at La Cigale in the old part of Cuenca. The streets are cobblestone, the sidewalks narrow, and the hostal is basic with hardwood floors in the room and a fabulous restaurant! The other thing that we really like about Cigale is the main guy at reception. He’s been great with directions and suggestions, honest and forthright. The downside is that the restaurant is popular and kind of noisy, the walls are a bit thin, and the church next door rings the bell three times before 7:30 AM.

Yesterday on our trek to Piedra de Agua in Banos we spotted Hosteria Duran and made a reservation to stay our last two nights here. They have volcanically heated pools, a Turkish bath and an upscale restaurant. It’s quite plush and very fancy, especially compared to the places I’ve stayed in so far.

Our objective today was to see how Panama hats were made and Barbara wanted to connect with a maker to potentially partner with and sell hats in her hostal in Mindo. We went to a couple of retail places just blocks from the hostal. I bought a hat for myself and wore it all day. It helped keep me cool in the Cuenca sunshine. Barbara was successful at getting six or seven hats for her place in Mindo.

Next we went up the hill to a famous potter’s place, Vega. Cuenca is known for Panama Hats and for ceramics. The store and studio are housed in one building. The pottery is gorgeous and from one of the rooms it’s possible to see into the studio where there were at least three artists working.

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January 25, 2012 by pam.

I think it was a the best birthday ever. Barbara Wilson, chocolate maker and Mindo hostal owner, and I went to Piedra de Agua, a spa in Banos a short bus ride from Cuenca. We bought a package, which allowed us to take advantage of all the things at the spa: Turkish bath, mud bath, mineral bath and all the pools. It also included a massage and dinner … with a “cupa de vino”.

A young man, Mario, was our host and time keeper for the afternoon. We started by taking a quick shower, then entering the Turkish steam room. It smelled like eucalyptus, and was so steamy I couldn’t see across the room. Mario came in after maybe 10 minutes and had us rinse and repeat, which was great because as soon as I was in the shower I thought “I’d like to go back in there”.

Our next stop was the mud bath. I’ve never done that sort of thing before so it was an experience. We covered ourselves with mud, even putting it in our hair. Mario instructed us to get out, let the mud dry, and then get back in the pool and rinse it off. The next tub was very similar except it was a mineral bath (gold and silver) where we smeared a turquoise substance on our skin.

Mario escorted us to the next station, hot and cold tubs. We got in the hot tub for 10 minutes, jumped (well, not really jumped … we sort of reluctantly went in inch by inch) into the cold tub for two minutes, went back to the hot tub for 10 minutes and then into the cold tub for another 2 minutes. He encouraged entering the cold tub “poco poco”.

The last stop was a steam box, where we sat in a chair in a box, doors closed in front and on top with just our heads sticking out. We were in there for 15 minutes. After that, we sat by the pool until it was time for our massage.

We were cooked after the massage so we got out of our bathing suits (which still have mud stains!) and had dinner with a glass of wine, batido, and a dessert. I’ve never done anything like we did today. It was very relaxing and it was just what I needed at this point in my trip. It’s a birthday I will certainly remember for a long time!

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January 23, 2012 by pam.

The first hot shower with good water pressure in three weeks was this morning at the hostal in Otavalo. What a treat!

Buses run from Otavalo to Cotacachi every 15 minutes or so. The ride is quick and just vente cinco centavos. The rest of the group planned to do a 4-6 hour hike around a lake nearby. They got off before Cotacachi and I carried on by myself to the town known for its leather goods. One entire street (and maybe more) was lined with leather shops selling jackets, belts, purses, boots/shoes, wallets, vests and horse saddles and other riding paraphernalia. I shopped for a couple of hours buying myself a purse, gloves, belt and jacket. Quite a shopping spree for me!

Before I left town (and while a quick and hard rain came through) I hit the cybercafé to send my mom a happy birthday email. There was a beautiful cake in the bakery this morning with “Feliz Cumpleanos” on it and it was nice to think of her in that moment. I took a photo but it’s not the same as being there (or having a piece of cake together).

It was a seamless trek back to Quito. The guy who takes the money (and sometimes another “sales” guy) is at the bus station shouting “Otavalo, Otavalo, Otavalo” and other city names. So, it’s easy to find your bus and just get on. No need to have a ticket because he comes through and collects the money. The bus to Quito took the PanAmerican Highway there and back. There were two toll booths between Quito and Otavalo but I couldn’t make out what the toll for a bus was.

Over the weekend I got to listen to the other students speak Spanish and, in the market and stores, I practiced both my negotiating skills as well as my Spanish. It was a good weekend and I’m glad I went.

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January 23, 2012 by pam.

Happy Birthday to my mom!

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January 23, 2012 by pam.

Six of us from escuela espanol Vida Verde met around 7:30 AM Saturday morning for a weekend trek to Otavalo and Cotacachi.

We took a taxi to the north station in Quito ($5) and then caught the bus to Otavalo ($2 for a two hour ride). The bus ride north of Quito was quite “bonita”. The mountainsides are green with fields of corn and other crops occasionally planted along the way. I suspect they can plant year round here. It’s a ‘mas bonita’ ride than the one from Manta to Puerto Lopez.

Once in Otavalo we checked into the hostal. I got a private room and had to use the common bathroom. The place smelled like camp with that sort of musty mildewy kind of smell.

We headed toward the market. The local indigenous people make goods in this area from alpaca and leather. There are hats, sweaters, jewelry, belts, scarves, blankets, and even an animal market. They sell these items everyday with sabado being the busiest day. Even so, it was manageable. I bought a couple of scarves (2 for $5) and a pair of double knit mittens ($4) that would have cost about $25 in the US.

After lunch we hiked to Peguchi Falls, a 45 minute walk. It was nice to be out of the city and in the smaller town of Otavalo … and then hike in the countryside. The falls are pretty and there are three bridges over the stream that allows a great view. On our hike back, there were three separate instances we came across cattle – five or so in a bunch. Twice they were with the ‘rancher’, being moved from one place to another. The third time they were on (very long) leashes in an open field on the outskirts of town. I took a pic of one with a very modern looking building behind it. The juxtaposition is just exactly what this country seems to be all about.

Three hours later, we arrived back at the hostal. There are a couple of hammocks in the courtyard and we rested there until it got cool. There were also flowers in the courtyard that were attractive to the hummingbirds. They were fun to see come and go. I’m looking forward to more bird watching in Mindo.

Trout is on the menu at nearly every restaurant in this area so that’s what I had for dinner. The head was taken off but the tail was still there. Included in dinner was an appetizer of sorts. A small plate of toasted maiz. Apparently there are many (six or eight) kinds of corn grown here. It tasted a little like soybeans only better.

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January 22, 2012 by pam.

Although my sense of smell is assaulted by the exhaust in Quito, it hasn’t been attacked by cigarette smoke. There just aren’t a lot of smokers. In my guidebook I read that internet cafés were plentiful but often smoke-filled. That hasn’t been the case. I was in an internet place today and it was smoke free. For 30 minutes online and to have one page printed, I paid 45 cents.) Restaurants haven’t had smokers in them, either, and the few people I’ve seen smoking have been on the street. I’ve heard cigarettes are expensive, although I haven’t checked it out myself.

Random Thoughts – Cars in Ecuador
There’s a lot of traffic here in Quito. Cars are expensive and even so, there aren’t a lot of junkers, at least in the city. In my observation walking through town (not statistically accurate), I’d guess that half the vehicles are Kia, Hyundai, and Chevrolet. Chevy has Ford beat, hands down about 10 to 1. There are a good number of Toyotas and I’ve only seen one Honda. Renault is here, too, along with Volkswagon and Nissan. A good number of the Chevy’s are the Chevy Spark and Aero, two cars I don’t often see in the US.

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January 22, 2012 by pam.

I’m a word person and it’s been fun and interesting to figure out Spanish words and meanings and see how they relate (or don’t) to English words. I love the sound of some Spanish words and just the look of others. After a couple of weeks of Spanish class, here are some of my favorites.

Ballena – I first ran across this word in Puerto Lopez. Ballerina came to mind and then I figured out it translates as “whale”. I think it’s great that such a delicate word is attached to such giant beings.

Increible – I think it’s the just the sound of this word, the emphasis on the “i” that sounds like an “e” and pronouncing the “e” at the end (as an “a” sound).

Peligroso – I first saw this on yellow caution tape my first week here and like the sound of it. It translates as dangerous.

Interesante and posible – Again, the “e” at the end is pronounced instead of being silent, like in English. All the vowels are pronounced in Spanish so sometimes the words have a lot of syllables. The accent on these two words make them roll right off your tongue.

Palabra – The word for “word”.

Bombero – The first time I saw a fire fighter he was dress in redish fatiques. Just like “fighter” is a strong sounding word I think “bombero” is also a strong sounding word.

Mascot – This is the word for “pet”. I’ve seen signs at businesses that say “No Mascots”. Yesterday I walked by a place that caters to pet owners and in the front window, the worker was blow drying the hair of a very white dog. It was the first blow dryer I’ve seen in Ecuador.

Diversion – This translation is the most curious to me. It’s “fun”.

What’s your favorite word (either English or Spanish)?

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January 22, 2012 by pam.

Today is the last day of Spanish class. The lessons have been one on one, first with Martha for a week and then with Adreana. Martha covered some basics with me and Adreana has built on that, included a lot more conversation, of which she does most of the talking. There’s been homework every night, which is quite helpful, and a review of that the next morning.

Over the weekend I wrote a couple of pages of notes. It was really just a list of words to learn/memorize and continue to pronounce. I took it along with me during my site seeing and practiced while waiting for the bus. Every day I learn new “verbos” and other words and every day I have a little glimmer of recognition of something in the conversation at dinner. Most of the time I can understand the jist of the conversation but asking a question or contributing is really still out of my realm of possibility.

The teachers are incredibly patient and, I think, do a good job at making the four hours one on one go fast. My criticism is that it is all Spanish all the time and when there’s a difficult concept to explain, it would be more appropriate in English. There are times when I “no comprende” the concept and repeating it in Spanish doesn’t help. The other thing that would really help is a conversation partner. It would be nice to have someone to practice the day’s lesson, or even last week’s lessons.

I can tell that it’s sinking in, though. In my head I can complete full sentences. My pronunciation is better and my vocabulary is increasing. I’m guessing I know at least 200 words, judging from the cheat sheet I made over the weekend. I’m having trouble remembering English words. Today it must’ve taken me a full five minutes to remember “iTunes” while Adreana was using a YouTube video for part of the lesson. I wondered if the group’s music (Jesse y Joy) was available. And, when I bought my plane ticket online, it took me several beats to remember my own phone number. This is exactly one of my goals for this trip – to have my English suffer and my US life fade. Another mission accomplished.

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January 19, 2012 by pam.

At Thanksgiving time my friend and former co-worker Charlie asked me to check which way the water rotated in the toilet south of the equator. My observations say (drum roll please) clockwise. Which way does it rotate in your bathroom?

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