Ganges at Night
Dividing into three cars, our group was delivered to a drop off spot again for a walk to the Ganges for a sunset boat ride. Raja, our 13 year old boat driver was ready and waiting for us. We boated to the area where the cremations take place. There were eight or nine fire burning with three or four bodies wrapped and waiting near the water’s edge. First, the pyre is prepared. Then the body is submerged in the holy water of the Ganges. After being unwrapped, the body is then placed on the pyre and set on fire. We got fairly close to be able to observe most of this.
Next we floated down the river to the ghat where the nightly sacred ceremony takes place. The ghat is crowed with people, some watching, some chanting, some ringing bells. There’s a decent sized crowd in the water two. Boats are packed in so closely that kids selling water walk from boat to boat to boat. The ceremony is 45 minutes long, lots of chanting and lighting 108 candles, incense, and more candles.
It was a day of observing humanity on display. What struck me is the cultural difference between what Americans are private about: bathing, laundry, ceremony, death. It is all on display here, especially in Varanasi at the river’s edge.
